Our Olympic Peninsula
By Kevin Sander, FIUTS Facilitator
Group photo at Marymere Falls.
The Olympic Peninsula is a land of extremes. Here, one can witness coastlines crenulated and fragmented, yet unyielding against the relentless battering of the sea; one can get lost among forests of mossy cloaked giants, their features dappled by sunlight sifted through canopy and veiling mists; one can stand atop icy mountain redoubts, overlooking entire realms of Earth stretched out for miles in every direction. Here nature is strange, it is alluring, and it is grand. Picking and choosing between which sights to see and which to leave behind is a dilemma as epic as the landscape itself – so we didn’t. Ambitious and bursting with adventures zeal, the sixteen participants in this year’s Olympic Peninsula Global Getaway opted to undertake an uncompromising, whirlwind tour of this extraordinary region. In just one short weekend, we discovered more than we could have anticipated and left with experiences and friendships that will keep for a lifetime.
Photo by Soren Vejlstrup of the view from Cape Flattery.
It was early Valentine’s Day morning and anticipation was already blooming within the group as we packed up our things and started on our journey. The drive to Port Angeles was our opportunity to become better acquainted with the other participants and muse over all the exciting ideas we had for things to go see and do. We arrived at the ToadLily House Hostel just after noon and we were pleased to find ourselves well situated within a quiet neighborhood, but still only a minute’s walk from downtown Port Angeles.
Kevin and Sawatt celebrating the success of “Team Sunset” at Cape Flattery.
After settling in at the hostel, we took some time to explore the town. We perused the local farmer’s market and enjoyed ocean and mountain vistas from the city pier. We might have meandered longer, but when we learned that we could still make it to Cape Flattery before sunset, the group’s collective affinity for adventure took over. We were off again. It was close, but we made it to the furthest north-western point in the United States with just enough time to hike down to the viewing areas and relish the scenery around us as the sun was setting. Rising out of the Pacific, Cape Flattery seems to defy the conventional forces of nature. Sheer cliffs and sea stacks boldly battle erosion even as the waters below swirl and crash around them. It is as if the land itself is stretched as far into the sea as it can bear, ending in the fractured assortment of cliffs, stacks, and islands that captivated us as we arrived. Seemingly less fazed by the clashing of land and sea below were the many bald eagles that soared around us, shuttling to and from Tatoosh Island and the mainland. Between the eagles above and the sea below, the sun sank towards the horizon, leaving brilliant waves color in its wake. Little did we suspect that the incredible panorama before us was only foreshadowing for the many more amazing things we had yet to see.
Photo by Maike Douglas of the Hoh Rainforest.
“Hiking up to the ends of the U.S. at Cape Flattery, I was struck by the breath-taking views of the pristine turquoise sea water surrounded by sheer cliffs dotted with hanging trees. I could feel the powerful force of the waves that came crashing on the boulders, sending resounding echoes throughout the entire premises.” – Sawatt Jeffrey
We were up late even after getting back from Cape Flattery. Stargazing, wandering the town, and the company of new friends proved too distracting to settle down. Eventually we did get sleep and we were up early again on Sunday, eager to get to our first destination of the day: Lake Crescent. The lake, nestled within the Olympic Mountains, was cold, clear, and remarkably still. We were almost afraid to disturb its tranquility, so we enjoyed a quiet, lakeside moment together. However, it didn’t take too long before our collective urge to explore took over and we found ourselves marching down a nearby trail to find Marymere Falls. A misty haze veiled long lengths of the trail as lake-bound waters whipped around cascading creeks. However, the forest itself, much like Lake Crescent nearby, was nearly motionless and almost completely silent – refusing even to rustle with the whispers of the wind. It seemed as if we visitors and the falls themselves were the only things in motion, traveling together within a world stopped in time.
Photo by Zihan Song of the Hoh Rainforest.
It was hard to imagine that we could be more easily enchanted by a forest than the one we had found at Maymere Falls, but our second destination for the day was able to do just that. In fact, the Hoh Rainforest surpassed any and all expectations we had for it. Ancient trees, draped in robes of moss and lichen, watched as we passed underneath and entered the Hall of Mosses. In places, beams of sunlight managed to penetrate the thick forest canopy, spilling between the spindling branches, and causing steam to rise wherever it touched. Branches and roots contorted weirdly into tangled knots, fresh saplings grew out of the bodies of trees that had fallen before, and clusters of giant mushrooms ate away at the dead and rotting. Cycles of life and death played out in every stage around us, interweaved so seamlessly as to make it nearly impossible to tell what parts of the forest were dying and which were just being born. The majesty of the Hoh Rainforest, like so much of the Olympic Peninsula, refuses to be captured by words. Even the pictures we took, as beautiful as they are, fail to truly convey merely the splendor of its image. We were embedded within the forest, with every sense present and open, and yet still we confessed to one another that it was difficult to take it all in.
Celebrating yet another smashing success by “Team Sunset” at Rialto Beach.
Our meandering through the forest eventually took us to its namesake river. Just beyond the reach of forest branches, we found along the banks of the Hoh River beaches of well-worn stones made warm by the sun. It was the perfect place to rest after a long day of hiking and it was tempting to spend the rest of our time next to the river chatting, skipping stones, and surrounded by unhindered views of forests and mountains. However, we agreed that there were still more extraordinary experiences left to be had elsewhere on the peninsula, so we bid a fond farewell to the Hoh and set off for our third major destination for the day.
Photo by Kevin Sander of sunset at Rialto Beach.
Now the race was on. Enthralled with the forest’s bounty, we had let ourselves lose track of time. Our goal was still to reach Rialto Beach in time for sunset, but sunset was only ninety minutes away – and so was the beach! We caravanned along the most efficient route possible, anxiously watching as the sun seemed to dash westward faster than we could. However, our resolve was validated when we reached Rialto with time to spare. From atop an amphitheater of driftwood, we were rendered speechless by the seascape before us. The sun drifted towards the horizon, its rays dancing among ocean swells. A rhythm beat out by the waves rose in symphony with the hymn of the wind, echoing over sea and stone. Silhouetted against sky and ocean, earthen monoliths rose from the surf, framing the entire scene. In this ballet of the elements, every minute was a new act. A spectacular new pallet of colors repainted the set with each incremental change in the sun’s position; rising in brilliant yellows and oranges, a crescendo of bold burgundy ringed in translucent green, and a final resolution within the tranquil depths of royal purple crowned in violet – fade to black. From our seats, we tried to soak in every moment of one of the most remarkable performances on earth, but soon enough the sun’s part was over and the world around us vanished into shadow. However, above us a new stage was being set, and the stars appeared in a shining overture. Undiminished by city lights, the heavens were on full display. Orion chasing the Pleiades, Polaris defining north, fleet Venus in the west near a faint Mars, a waning crescent moon; some lights radiating from thousands of light-years away, but all immediately relevant to us in that moment. Unable to leave the universe’s exhibition, we came together to build an impromptu fire, warding away the cold and extending our stay just a little longer as we lay on our backs looking up.
Zihan Song’s image of the night sky over the Olympic Peninsula
“Walking through the forest, breathing fresh air, contemplating the most beautiful sunset I have ever seen in my existence and looking at the sky completely full of stars just made me realize how small and at the same time powerful we are as human beings.” – Maike Douglas
Day three was our last on the Olympic Peninsula, but that didn’t stop us from packing it as full with adventure as the other two. It was a team effort, but that morning we managed to prepare and enjoy a massive breakfast of banana pancakes, sausage, hash browns and eggs all while packing all our belongings into the vans and cleaning the entire hostel before departure. Once again, we drove deep into Olympic National Park to find the Boulder Creek trail. Hidden away within the mountains, overlooking brooks and shaded under pine, Boulder Creek’s secret treasures are the hot spring pools scattered up and down its length. Finding a pool to ourselves, we basked in waters warmed by the Earth itself. Without realizing it, we whiled away hours just relaxing, chatting, and sharing some of our personal highs and lows throughout the trip. It was well into the afternoon when we finally worked up the willpower to leave. Before we could head back to Seattle, however, we still had one last stop to make on the peninsula.
Group photo from atop Hurricane Ridge.
With just over an hour until closing time, we made it to the peak of Hurricane Ridge. We were greeted at the top by cold gusts and trails covered in ice and snow, but nothing could chill our excitement at the views we found there. From our vantage, the world spread before us like a map; to the north, Port Angeles lay sleepily at the water’s edge while across the Strait of Juan de Fuca all of Victoria was clearly visible along with the great extent of Vancouver Island, the San Juan Islands, and Canada’s Coast Mountains; to the east, Mount Baker stood foremost amongst the mighty Cascades, itself looming over Skagit and Whatcom counties; in the south, the Olympic Mountains, wrapped in evergreen forests and capped in snow, stood stalwart and impressive. Nonetheless, it was the sun setting in the west that again stole our attention. In one last spectacular display, the sky was lit up in a spectrum as full and vibrant as the one we had witnessed the day before. We might have stayed until well after the sun had left if it weren’t for the fact that the park was closing for the day. We piled back into the vans and set off for home.
“I definitely will never forget the incredible sunset on the Hurricane Ridge or the Olympic National Park landscape. I was not expecting to have such a wonderful and unforgettable trip.” – Marilia Almeida
Panoramic by Shelly Sun at Hurricane Ridge.
We had originally planned to get back to Seattle much earlier than we actually did, but getting lost in the natural wonders of the Olympic Peninsula was well worth the extra time. Plus, the late return gave us the opportunity for one more memorable moment together. From the Bainbridge Island ferry, the Seattle nightscape welcomed us home. After a weekend embedded in nature, the spectacle of the city lights felt a little surreal. From CenturyLink Field to the Space Needle, it was a sight beautiful, human, and altogether different than those we were returning from. Staring at the city across Sound waters, it was a moment of reflection on the experiences that we had shared and the relationships that we had built over such a short period of time. Together, we agreed that there are rare moments in life that have the power to reshape your perspective and change your point of view. They are moments that live in feeling and in memory. No matter how much you wish you could, they are moments that refuse to be shared through any combination of words or images within your power to create. They are moments that simply must be lived. This Global Getaway was one of those moments.
Special thanks to all the participants for their wonderful pictures, their words, and their adventurous spirits. This trip was made so memorable because of them.
“Visiting places such as Hurricane Ridge and finding the hot springs in the mountains was definitely something I never thought I would be able to do while living in US. I am extremely grateful for having the opportunity to meet all of you and sharing a bit of my story. I will never stop exploring the fantastic world we have just outside of our doors.” -Maike Douglas
“It was what I had imagined and even more majestic and magical… I felt as if my horizon has been broadened, being able to interact with people of different ethnicities and life perspectives… At the end of this trip, I have come to realize that there is a whole world out there still awaiting for me to explore and this is just the beginning.” - Marissa Lee
“I was so worried about the trip would be tough for me because of language barrier and not knowing anyone there. However, everything went well... This is definitely the most wonderful trip I have ever had.” - Chia-ling Sun (Shelly)
“I had so much fun from this trip and really enjoyed exploring nature in Olympic National Park. I have so many good memories during this trip. It was my privilege to have such an unforgettable trip in my life with wonderful people I met at one of the most beautiful places on the Earth.” – Heesu Jo
Want to take a memorable trip with FIUTS? Check out the Spring Break trip to Canada!